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Heat Dome - June 2024


What are your tips to avoid the heat? Pools don't open in NYC until 6/27, so they are rushing the cooling centers to be open today instead. I don't need to utilize a cooling center, I have two window AC units in my apartment and I'm able to keep it around 68-70 inside. I don't like to run them all day because the electricity bill starts to rise around now, but these kinds of weeks make it necessary.

Is anyone cold out there? lol
 

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Uh… I’ve lived through worse heat than what we’re seeing down here today, but it doesn’t mean I have to like it. The heat over here is different than the city, I’ve noticed. Where we roast from the concrete and asphalt from the ground up in the city and catch shade from the buildings, the sun just kinda does sun stuff and cooks you from above all day here.
 

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Screeeeeeeeew this heat.

I just spent ~30 minutes outside for my daughters pre-k graduation, and it was about all I could tolerate. Went and got FroYo after.

Current:
1000007141.jpg

Week:
1000007139.jpg

I've got central air, so my place stays at 70° quite consistently. It's the few minutes after getting into the car that are horrid.

I might even clean the junk out my garage enough to pull the car in, so it'll stay cooler...
 
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I'm just glad it's this week, I'm going on a hiking and outdoor vacation in New Hampshire next week.

I'm just running my 3 window AC's all day and night. I don't care how much it costs. My finished basement stays under 70 without A/C but I put one in just to be safe.

Those newer window units are a hell of a lot more efficient than the ones that existed when we were growing up, but they don’t have nearly the life expectancy as the ones with the awesome hazardous refrigerants.

Screeeeeeeeew this heat.

I just spent ~30 minutes outside for my daughters pre-k graduation, and it was about all I could tolerate. Went and got FroYo after.

Current:
View attachment 17220

Week:
View attachment 17219

I've got central air, so my place stays at 70° quite consistently. It's the few minutes after getting into the car that are horrid.

I might even clean the junk out my garage enough to pull the car in, so it'll stay cooler...

Have you tinted your windows? Even 35%+ makes a difference in temperatures like this.

these constant 90+ degree temps make it impossible to do anything outside. Even in shaded areas or after 7PM

Right? I was telling my girl that I can’t wait til sundown… til I saw that it’s still supposed to be in the 80’s til after 10pm as I was mid-sentence. I picked the wrong week to have contacts delivered, hopefully they aren’t roasting in the truck.
 
Those newer window units are a hell of a lot more efficient than the ones that existed when we were growing up, but they don’t have nearly the life expectancy as the ones with the awesome hazardous refrigerants.

Yeah, I replace them every 3 years on average. Not only that, but it helps to get new ones since I live under trees and the gunk/mildew build up in them gets nasty, so I'd rather just replace them after a while than take them apart to clean them.
 

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We haven't hit the triple digits here yet which is kinda out of character for Texas so I am grateful.

I don't personally have a pool but our neighborhood (public) pools (and waterparks) typically open Memorial Day weekend. They really should open at least a month earlier but not much I can do about that 🤔
 
Been getting these all day, for both NY and MA. So reassuring.

scared season 3 GIF
 

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Those window ACs are just ones you stick right in front of the window?

In Singapore people pretty much exclusively use permanent systems although that's a pretty obvious choice with the climate. Here in the UK it's almost unknown although my neighbour did install one for his above garage space after our heatwave of two years ago.
Prefacing with the US largely having "slide up" windows compared to "swing open" ones like in Europe:

Yeah, you basically open the window and put the A/C unit mostly out, with most catching on the window frame at the bottom then sliding the window down. Most of the time they'll get screwed to the frame. Then they'll have fins on the side to close the gap on either side.

Central air, where there's a big intake unit outside that comes through air ducts and out of floor registers are way less common here. But they're infinitely better for big spaces.

I definitely never saw A/C in England. Only radiators.
 

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Yeah, I replace them every 3 years on average. Not only that, but it helps to get new ones since I live under trees and the gunk/mildew build up in them gets nasty, so I'd rather just replace them after a while than take them apart to clean them.

They’re too much of a hassle to repair, anyway. The only thing worth fixing is a blown capacitor, anything else wrong and they’re considered junk.

Yeah, that's part of why. I looked into portable versions after our last heatwave but they don't work well with our windows. Interesting that they are semi-permanent units, though it makes a lot of sense.

I’ve noticed a trend is “air coolers” being sold here lately, and those are the ones that require ice or water and blow a fan over it. Traditional “portable” air conditioners are the ones that come with those flex vents that you stick in a window. Unless dry heat is an issue, the air coolers are effectively useless. From a quick search, it seems like what we call “mini splits” are common. They’re easier to install without the infrastructure of a duct network.
 

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Have you tinted your windows? Even 35%+ makes a difference in temperatures like this.
Not at all, no. Looks like NY law only allows 30% at max, and I wouldn't want to push that upper limit and have to deal with being pulled over so some cop could test them.

Just getting it into the shade seems like a much better option.
 
I’ve noticed a trend is “air coolers” being sold here lately, and those are the ones that require ice or water and blow a fan over it. Traditional “portable” air conditioners are the ones that come with those flex vents that you stick in a window. Unless dry heat is an issue, the air coolers are effectively useless. From a quick search, it seems like what we call “mini splits” are common. They’re easier to install without the infrastructure of a duct network.
Mini-splits were what I had everywhere I lived in Singapore. It's definitely the best choice for a permanent AC setup for those that need it a lot. I presume there are some homes with ducts but I always liked the ability to control on a per-room basis.

I used the AC so much that when I came back from my summer holidays the door wouldn't fit properly in the frame because it got too big.

And yeah, I looked into air coolers too. They would have been fine in our last heatwave because the humidity was so low, but normally in the UK climate they are pretty useless.
 

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I hate window AC units. They're loud and add an odd smell to the room they're cooling. Glad I have a central HVAC system.

That’s the refrigerant you’re smelling, and usually a sign that the system is working too hard or leaking. You shouldn’t be able to smell anything from a system that’s properly running through cooling and evaporation cycles. @Advocate for Ants! Mouth might have more insight, my HVAC knowledge is pretty rudimentary.

Not at all, no. Looks like NY law only allows 30% at max, and I wouldn't want to push that upper limit and have to deal with being pulled over so some cop could test them.

Just getting it into the shade seems like a much better option.

30% is actually pretty dark, with 0% being “blackout” tint. The limit here is 35%, for comparison. Even something in the 40-45% range would make a difference, since it adds a layer of safety in the event of an accident, and provides some heat blocking.

Mini-splits were what I had everywhere I lived in Singapore. It's definitely the best choice for a permanent AC setup for those that need it a lot. I presume there are some homes with ducts but I always liked the ability to control on a per-room basis.

I used the AC so much that when I came back from my summer holidays the door wouldn't fit properly in the frame because it got too big.

And yeah, I looked into air coolers too. They would have been fine in our last heatwave because the humidity was so low, but normally in the UK climate they are pretty useless.

From what I’ve learned, mini-splits are becoming more popular elsewhere here in America. Where I’ve lived, the options were either window units in houses without duct work or central air handlers to cover the entire house.
 

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That’s the refrigerant you’re smelling, and usually a sign that the system is working too hard or leaking. You shouldn’t be able to smell anything from a system that’s properly running through cooling and evaporation cycles. @Advocate for Ants! Mouth might have more insight, my HVAC knowledge is pretty rudimentary.
Haven't read anything else in this thread yet.

I would start by cleaning/replacing the filter. If that doesn't solve it, there's a decent chance there could be mold growing in the AC (this does tend to be a problem with window units as time goes on). You can get that fixed, but it's typically easier to just get a new one at that point (especially because new ones are also going to be a shit ton more efficient).



Noticing @The Eye in the Sky! 's post above mine: our place in Medford came with Central AC (an old system) hooked up to ceiling ducts throughout the house. We had a Mass Save audit come in where they suggested Mini Splits on a heat pump to replace our gas heat (but leaving the Central AC in place) and it was a stupid large quote. I had someone different come in and mentioned we'd like to use the existing duct work if possible, and they said it was entirely possible and it wound up being less than half the price. Add in the Mass Save rebate plus the tax incentives and suddenly we're able to afford it, while also replacing both systems in a single go.
 

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Mini-splits were what I had everywhere I lived in Singapore. It's definitely the best choice for a permanent AC setup for those that need it a lot. I presume there are some homes with ducts but I always liked the ability to control on a per-room basis.
Mini-Splits are more expensive but do offer the added functionality of having different zones. We currently have 4 heating zones (through hydronic gas baseboard) and only a single cooling zone. Once we upgrade to the ducted heat pump we'll have only a single zone for each (which is fine, but with 2 floors it would be nice to account for "heat rises/cold falls" but eh).

As I mentioned in my previous post, it's SO much more affordable to use heat pumps through ducts. In fact, if we tried to do mini-splits in our place we'd need 2 condenser units to capture the number of splits needed to get to the point where we'd qualify for the rebate, at which point the cost becomes so high that even with the rebate it would cost more than the single condenser solution the ducted method does (granted, there is another unit, an AHU in the attic, but that's much less expensive than a second condenser and the required added connections and such).

However, ducts have the drawbacks of only having a single zone (unless you get super fancy ducts that cost more than you should pay), as well as requiring additional filters for the AHU (these are cheap though, just need to stay on top of swapping them), and require maintenance and potentially being replaced over time as well.


Maybe I should read the whole thread, considering how much of my career has been spent tangentially related to HVAC.
 

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Noticing @The Eye in the Sky! 's post above mine: our place in Medford came with Central AC (an old system) hooked up to ceiling ducts throughout the house. We had a Mass Save audit come in where they suggested Mini Splits on a heat pump to replace our gas heat (but leaving the Central AC in place) and it was a stupid large quote. I had someone different come in and mentioned we'd like to use the existing duct work if possible, and they said it was entirely possible and it wound up being less than half the price. Add in the Mass Save rebate plus the tax incentives and suddenly we're able to afford it, while also replacing both systems in a single go.

Krys says you’ve gotta shop around with the affiliate vendors, that’s fairly common. Did you use an HPC for the initial assessment and quote, or CleaResult? Apparently you have to be cautious with the HPC’s, because the ones like HomeWorks and NEEECO will lock y’all down with two year assessments and you’ll have to use them for the work, and then they’ll try to charge you extra to push your paperwork through to CleaResult for the various loans or rebates, which is the lead vendor for your area. IF you did get locked down with a HPC, you can always request a CoSP form and state that you want another provider to come through. She recommends always going with CleaResult, not just because she works there, but because they handle ALL of the admin bullshit for the program in your area so it’ll help expedite things for you, and they allow you to choose any of the 700+ affiliated vendors.

As far as the rebates go, though… I’ll tell y’all this much. I’ve heard a lot of horror stories about people waiting MONTHS for them.
 

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Some other comments after reading through:

Window units are incredibly common in the US, but there are houses in older areas that also have the "swing out" windows (I'm literally sitting next to some right now). Those can't fit the window units obviously, but the floor ones that you can connect the exhaust to the window with the hose/pipe are an option there.

An often overlooked part of all of this: areas like Texas and Arizona (and SoCal and such) are built for the heat, where the homes do a better job at cooling off at night when the temperatures drop. Areas that get cold winters are built the exact opposite of this: to retain heat. That means that even though the temperatures aren't as high, it can end up being worse over time since there's no easy way to cool down at night without AC of some sort (winters are the reverse: good in the north because we retain heat, bad in the south because they don't). That doesn't mean it's pleasant at all in either circumstance.


Window Units: @The Eye in the Sky! has the right idea. You should try to replace these on some sort of routine basis if you can afford it. Even just a year or two newer makes a crazy difference in how efficient they are and the kind of area they can cool easily. Not to mention the previously brought up issue of there being a potential for mold over time. If you're in a place that you don't own that doesn't offer some sort of central heat or heat pump situation, this is your best bet

Central Air: This is a decent solution, but probably not the way to go if you're going to be installing new. If you have an existing system make sure to get it cleaned and maintained. If it's older there's also a chance you might need to replace the entire system soon (this is the case with mine). It could still work perfectly fine, but the coolant it uses is illegal to install these days, meaning if something happens to it it can't be repaired. When you replace the condenser you'll also need to replace the AHU (Air Handler Unit, sometimes called a Furnace) as well because they need to work with eachother.

Heat Pumps: If you're installing new, this is probably the way to go. You can do ducted or ductless (mini-splits) depending on your situation, it would be good to get quotes for both. If you already have ducts, it'll likely be a lot cheaper to utilize them. If you don't, mini-splits will probably be the more affordable solution. Despite the name they do both heating and cooling. It's a good way to convert off of Oil or Gas if that's what you're currently on as well. In order to do this you might also need to upgrade your electric panel (a lot of homes, especially in older areas, are only on 100A panels. You'll need at the very least a 150A to be comfortable in not blacking yourself out, and preferably 200A to be on the safe side). In some states (MA, for instance) there are very large incentives to do all of this work. Up to $10K for the heat pump work itself in a direct rebate, plus ~30% tax rebate on the remaining cost. The electric panel upgrade you can get a 30% tax writeoff as well if you prove you did the panel upgrade to install energy efficient heating/cooling.

Geothermal: hell yes this is a thing. If you have the yard space for it and the money to do it this is probably my favorite. They'll dig your yard up and bury the components in there, which will take heat from the ground (below the frost level) in the winter and the cool temperatures from below in the summer. Expensive but so cool. Probably can get incentives for this.


Other things? Drink cold beverages, don't use the oven, even silly things like "put a divider in the rooms" helps out. I'll add a picture to the next post to show a basically paper thin divider I have up in a room that's causing a 5+ degree difference.
 

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Krys says you’ve gotta shop around with the affiliate vendors, that’s fairly common. Did you use an HPC for the initial assessment and quote, or CleaResult? Apparently you have to be cautious with the HPC’s, because the ones like HomeWorks and NEEECO will lock y’all down with two year assessments and you’ll have to use them for the work, and then they’ll try to charge you extra to push your paperwork through to CleaResult for the various loans or rebates, which is the lead vendor for your area. IF you did get locked down with a HPC, you can always request a CoSP form and state that you want another provider to come through. She recommends always going with CleaResult, not just because she works there, but because they handle ALL of the admin bullshit for the program in your area so it’ll help expedite things for you, and they allow you to choose any of the 700+ affiliated vendors.

As far as the rebates go, though… I’ll tell y’all this much. I’ve heard a lot of horror stories about people waiting MONTHS for them.
We got a few quotes for sure. We ended up going with Elephant Energy (based in Colorado, but uses local contractors) partially because they apply for the rebates and only charge you for the remainder.

We actually initially got a free HomeWorks assessment, but I read the fine print and signed nothing. No harm there.

CleaResult was one of the potential ones, but we were cheating and looked at someone else's work for quotes (similar area and sized house) and they were in the second tier price wise. One of our friends is using Elephant right now and it's gone very well (his system was actually installed yesterday, crazy good timing).
 

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30% is actually pretty dark, with 0% being “blackout” tint. The limit here is 35%, for comparison. Even something in the 40-45% range would make a difference, since it adds a layer of safety in the event of an accident, and provides some heat blocking.
That's not how I read it. NY state law says tint can block 30% of incoming light and 70% must pass through. So 100% would be opaque black, with clear glass being 0%.

Not claiming you're wrong about it helping any, I just don't want any reason to have to talk to a cop.

1000007148.jpg
 
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We got a few quotes for sure. We ended up going with Elephant Energy (based in Colorado, but uses local contractors) partially because they apply for the rebates and only charge you for the remainder.

That’s raising her eyebrows a little, because the rebates are submitted off of the utility account holder and not the contractor, and under authorization of the audits.

She’s certainly concerned about the circumstances regarding the rebate, because she ran a couple scenarios that could’ve put you with a contractor outside of HomeWorks and CLEAResult. She says that if HomeWorks did your audit, they still have you on the hook for two years on their network of installers if they didn’t authorize you outsourcing the work to another contractor in order to qualify for the rebates. Based on what you’re describing, it sounds like HomeWorks did your audit and you declined to let them perform the work, which is common, but if you don’t get permission to use another contractor from them, that can interfere with your eligibility for the rebates. Beyond that, those rebates take significantly longer to reach you than described within the program, and if the contractor is fronting the money, so to speak, that can get dicey if it ends up taking several months to get back to you. If the contractor is the one that applied for them on your behalf, then you may not have any way to check the progress of them or anything else down those lines. She’s encouraging me to tell you to call in and make sure everything is on the up and up with your eligibility as far as the rebates go, just to be safe. She has seen quite a few people take the contractor’s word on these kind of things and end up being stuck with the bill because the contractor didn’t follow the program steps.
 

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That's not how I read it. NY state law says tint can block 30% of incoming light and 70% must pass through. So 100% would be opaque black, with clear glass being 0%.

Not claiming you're wrong about it helping any, I just don't want any reason to have to talk to a cop.

View attachment 17230

Yeah, that language is a bit different than here. I wouldn’t take any chances, but maybe one of those sun screens could help?
 
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Does it help to apply foil to the windows? :chuckle I saw this on Instagram but the comment section was pretty torn. Currently, all my blinds are drawn but I'll admit they are not the best. It's one of those things we always say we want to upgrade and never do. I'm OK with my apartment building looking jank as fuck from the outside if it means more effective heat shielding.
 
It will work, so long as you put it on the outside. But the issue is that it can damage the window glass or its seals either by overheating or temperature difference, particularly if you have double/triple glazing. It might even be banned in your lease, either for that reason or because people will think you're a drug lord. Could be worth a try, but you could get specalised products if you want that aren't all that expensive.

Interior blinds aren't a complete solution anyway. They solve half the problem by blocking the sun's rays but because the gap between the blind and the window is on the inside eventually that trapped heat will leak into the room. Ideally any shade you get would be on the outside, or at least on the window like a tint.
 
It will work, so long as you put it on the outside. But the issue is that it can damage the window glass or its seals either by overheating or temperature difference, particularly if you have double/triple glazing. It might even be banned in your lease, either for that reason or because people will think you're a drug lord.
I hadn't even considered it being against my lease, I'll definitely look into that now lol. I was thinking of only doing it on the non-street facing windows, and only during super heatwaves like this week.
Interior blinds aren't a complete solution anyway. They solve half the problem by blocking the sun's rays but because the gap between the blind and the window is on the inside eventually that trapped heat will leak into the room. Ideally any shade you get would be on the outside, or at least on the window like a tint.
This is the issue we commonly face in my apartment. The blinds we do have are spaced about 6-8 inches away from the actual window, and our windows are pretty shit here. I'd get them replaced if I owned the place, but bldg management will do anything they can except fix stuff for as long as possible. The usual way it goes.
 

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I hadn't even considered it being against my lease, I'll definitely look into that now lol. I was thinking of only doing it on the non-street facing windows, and only during super heatwaves like this week.

This is the issue we commonly face in my apartment. The blinds we do have are spaced about 6-8 inches away from the actual window, and our windows are pretty shit here. I'd get them replaced if I owned the place, but bldg management will do anything they can except fix stuff for as long as possible. The usual way it goes.
I dunno if it'd still be against the lease, but I wonder how much better using just white fabric would be. Still probably more effective on the outside, but I'm assuming a white cotton pillow case pinned to the frame outside would be less likely to damage the glass due to heat like tinfoil, and still probably let some airflow through if there were ever any breeze.

You could just argue you're drying your laundry.
 

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I hadn't even considered it being against my lease, I'll definitely look into that now lol. I was thinking of only doing it on the non-street facing windows, and only during super heatwaves like this week.

This is the issue we commonly face in my apartment. The blinds we do have are spaced about 6-8 inches away from the actual window, and our windows are pretty shit here. I'd get them replaced if I owned the place, but bldg management will do anything they can except fix stuff for as long as possible. The usual way it goes.

Have you tried a UV-blocking blackout curtain? They actually do a good bit of work keeping heat out, especially if your window gets direct sunlight.

Also… chances are, your building is probably older than you, so it might be worth looking into some temporary sealing options. There are a variety of products you can use to shield incoming light and heat from your windows that won’t violate your lease. Keep in mind, though, your landlord also has standards he’s required to adhere to… and that includes providing a unit that doesn’t induce a heat stroke. Don’t be afraid to play hardball with a landlord over stuff like this, dude. You and your wife’s safety and comfort are just as important as fattening their wallet.
 

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Why not get a window A/c unit or did I miss the reasoning earlier?
I have two window AC units in my apartment and I'm able to keep it around 68-70 inside. I don't like to run them all day because the electricity bill starts to rise around now
He has two, just wanted alternatives that aren't as expensive.

Thunderstorms rolled through here about an hour ago and it did so much to kill the heat. Still hot, but it went from feeling like 108° to 86°. It may be an English stereotype, but I fucking love rain.

1000007165.jpg
1000007166.jpg
 
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Temperatures drop during storms. That doesn't mean it'll stay that way after every time.
I'd probably attribute it to the cloud cover giving some shade. If you don't happen to get the storm towards the end of the day when it's not going to blast down right after, it'll probably just climb back to up.
 

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I'd probably attribute it to the cloud cover giving some shade. If you don't happen to get the storm towards the end of the day when it's not going to blast down right after, it'll probably just climb back to up.
Nah it's actually cooler air that comes with the storms for various reasons. It's just whether or not there's more cool air behind it or if it's back to hot air.

My old meteorology classes pay off sometimes.
 
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Nah it's actually cooler air that comes with the storms for various reasons. It's just whether or not there's more cool air behind it or if it's back to hot air.

My old meteorology classes pay off sometimes.
Fair point. I guess the pressure difference would do way more to circulate the air.

I would suggest blackout curtains or taking cardboard to the windows to block the sun and heat somewhat. You can also stick foil or whatever you want to the cardboard. Thicker cardboard would work better obviously.
Tommy already said he's not sure if foil on the windows would violate his lease, given it could warp the glass under high enough temp.

Curtains/blinds were also suggested, but those just trap heat between that layer and the glass, so it still gets hotter inside eventually.

I think the most effective option would just be to donate plasma to afford the higher electricity bill.
 

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Tommy already said he's not sure if foil on the windows would violate his lease, given it could warp the glass under high enough temp.
Which is why cardboard would be on the window side. Shouldn’t make the glass heat up too much
Curtains/blinds were also suggested, but those just trap heat between that layer and the glass, so it still gets hotter inside eventually.
Eventually, but still better and cheaper than not doing anything and using the a/c only. Just because it isn’t a perfect solution, doesn’t mean it doesn’t have value
 
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